The time had come for us to
leave Pisa and take the last train trip of our journey. Checkout was at 10:30
so we packed up our bags and headed out, though our train wasn't until almost
2. We checked out the last bit of souvenir places and headed to find bus
tickets so we could get back to the station. Luckily there was a machine right
at our corner so we paid for our tickets and crossed the street to catch the
bus. We arrived at the station long before we needed to be there so we set up
camp at the McDonalds, we had some lunch and played cards to occupy our time.
To be completely honest, the
train journeys have started to run together and I am having a hard time
remembering specific details. I do remember parts of the coast and coming
through the new port of Rome before actually hitting the city. Our stop was the
central terminal in Rome so we got to see parts of the city before we got off
the train. I had the directions from the terminal to the campground so we at
least had some idea of where we were heading. The first step was to transfer
from the train section to the metro. The station seemed well labeled so we
followed the signs, they did lead us in the right direction but it took us
almost 20 minutes to get there; not exactly a short distance between the two
stations. We got on the correct metro and made our way to the appropriate stop
where we then had to find the correct exit and bus stop for the last leg of our
journey.
There was a stop just
outside the exit that had our bus number on it so we waited here... for a
really long time. I have become accustomed to good transportation in large
cities... Rome does not really offer that, at least when it comes to their
buses. We waited about 20 minutes before the bus came. We boarded and the bus and travelled about
two blocks before it turned around and stopped in a bus station, where we
waited for another 15 minutes or so. Eventually the bus moved again and we
headed back past the original stop on the other side of the street. Lesson learned; when we needed to head home
make sure we were on the right side of the street. Because we got on the bus at the very beginning
(or before the beginning ;) of the route we were able to sit down and take our
packs off. After the second stop the bus
was crazy packed and I have gotten used to the rude looks we get for taking up
so much space. However, when you are
young and perfectly capable of standing, suck it up princess! This lady asked if we could move all our
stuff so she could sit down (because she needed to text, some girls can't text
and stand apparently). So we both now
have to balance our heavy bags on our laps in the very hot bus. Miss Princess then gets off in about 3
minutes. Seriously, we both wanted to
kick her. We got off at the correct stop
and walked the last few minutes to the campground.
When we got there a tour bus
had just arrived so check in was swamped. I sat and guarded the packs while
Lyle hung out in line. Eventually we got our package and made our way to the
tent. Now here in Rome they really packed the tents in, there was maybe 6
inches of space between the tents, this would be our demise as the girls next
to us came back really late, really drunk and really loud each night. The
campground was nice though and quite large. We settled in a bit and then headed
to the restaurant onsite for some dinner. After dinner we grabbed a few
supplies from the market and called it a night.
Our adventures in Rome
begin!! We decided we would start at one
side of the city and walk through and see the things we wanted to see this
day. Of course, a day in Rome wouldn't
be a day in Rome without some frustration and poor local transit. Before I get into that I will describe our
campground. We are on the western edge
of the city right next to a highway. The
campground is at the top of an embankment that takes a switchback by car to get
to the top. Reception, lock boxes, and
the internet shack are at the bottom and everything else is at the top. It is very similar to our Venice camp ground
except a little older and dense. This
campsite is very much the party campsite as each night there is a theme for a
dance and the restaurant has several TVs to watch the Euro Cup (of which we
have become addicted to).
So we begin the day with
getting on a bus that should take us to a metro stop. We didn't have to wait too long for this one
(a rare occasion indeed in Rome) and so we thought we were doing well. We were all on the lookout for the Metro Sign
when the area of town showed up on the bus stops. We passed under an elevated railway track and
thought that would be the Metro stop, but no signs were in sight. After going several more stops and finally
leaving the section of stops that the Metro was suppost to be located in, we
got off with the rest of the puzzled tourists from the campground and started
walking back towards the elevated railway.
Once we got there, we saw a Metro sign hidden down and around the corner
(impossible to see from our road). We
were thinking the metro would be underground, but couldn't find any entrance or
signs (later in the week we end up coming out of this metro station that was
impossibly hidden and no signs anywhere).
So instead we go up. That took us
to another set of rail lines that were above ground and only went to certain
big stations. Our tiny map showed us
that we could get there using this railing and needed to get off in 3 stops.
When 3 stops came up, it was
definitely a different station than the one our map showed. We got off and decided to get a real map
after all the frustration we had already encountered in less than 24 hours. Ours new map showed that there were two stops
extra stops that were conveniently left out on our other map (this sparked a
conversation about the difference between and incomplete and incorrect
map). All said and done, we FINALLY get
to where we wanted to be. First order of
business was to get food, so we stopped at a sandwich place that would best be
described as a bamboo hut plopped on a large median on a main internal
road. It was the first one we saw and
didn't feel like looking any further.
The food was ok and reasonably priced.
Our map had 10 things you
had to see in Rome, and with most of them being of interest to us, we used that
as our guide. Our first stop was right across
the street. It was a pyramid of
stone. Yes. That’s all we know. No explanation. So, moving on . . .
We walked towards Circus
Maximus. Before we got there we noticed
a very large and imposing building with heavy security and government style
architecture. We wondered what it
was. On the map it just said 'FAO',
which meant nothing to me. Heather just
stopped and gawked, which made me wonder what kind of Asian building named Fao
would Heather know about. She then
explained that FAO was the 'Food and Agriculture Organization', a department of
the United Nations, and the internationally agency that was the source of a lot
Heather's undergrad research work when she was in Edmonton with PHAC. Their headquarters are apparently in
Rome. It was a really neat coincidence!
Right across from the FAO is
the remains of the Circus Maximus. Back
in the day the chariot racing track was awe inspiring and spectacular in every
way. It was enormous, with seating for nearly
400 000 people. Most ancient cities
couldn't grow that big because of civil infrastructure limitations, by the Romans
engineering aqueducts and roads and made it possible for Rome to grow to over a
million people, so having a chariot track that could fit nearly half the city
was unlike anything you would have seen back then. Today however, all that remains is the dirt
embankments that give the viewer only the outline of what the Circus would have
looked like. They are doing some
restoration work to possibly reconstruct one end of the track to showcase what
it was like when in use. The Circus
Maximus is at the base of the Palatine Hill, which features the remains of
roman buildings dating back to before Christ.
Heather wasn't really in the
mood for a race around the track (thank goodness, cause we both would have fainted
halfway around from the heat), so we just ran across it and made our way along
the Paletine Hill towards the Coliseum.
This incredible structure is still one of my most favourite buildings in
the world. Seeing something nearing 2000
years old still standing and still awe inspiring is amazing to me. Before we could reach the entrance we had to
parade through the traditional onslaught of hockers and street vendors selling
hats, umbrellas, and toys. Last time I
was here I took a guided tour and wasn't overly impressed, so Heather and I
thought we would try our luck with the audio guide. The guy trying to sell us a guided tour said
that if we didn't take the tour then we would have to wait in the queue for at
least 45 minutes and that there was no explanations or anything like that on
the inside. Tourist beware, we waited in
line 5 minutes, had a great audio guide with more than enough information, English
text in their artifact area, and we avoided paying over double the price to be herded
like cattle through the Coliseum.
We were happily inside and
starting our audio guide tour, a simple handheld device you hold up to your ear
and press a button at a certain spot along your walk for a pre-recorded
message. Great system, but following the
map to the first commentary was a bit confusing (only in Rome can you make
going in a circle confusing!). We also
had a very friendly tourist with the same problem that ended up following us
around and bumping into us everywhere, despite taking breaks and other directions. That’s always fun when you've got someone
checking in over your shoulder in a place where they used to kill people ;)
The Coliseum really is
amazing. As the pictures show, the
engineering and construction was otherworldly for that era. From our guide we learnt that the Coliseum was
actually names after a statue that stood out front that was called 'The Neronis
Colossus' and was 106 roman feet in height.
So it was actually a statue that is the root of our modern day word 'colossus'. We learned that the games in the Coliseum
were always free, but you had to get a ticket beforehand and were seated in
very strict areas depending on your social status. The higher up in society you were, the closer
to the pit you were seated. There were
all kinds of trapped doors and gangways that open directly into the pit and you
can see the tunnels that remain from these engineering marvels. We also learnt that the Roman word for sand
is 'Arenus', and the pit was covered in sand.
We now use Arena for the area where a sporting event occurs, but it came
from the sand that gladiators fought on.
After Christianity finally had a stronghold on the Roman world, then Coliseum
fell into abandonment and ruin.
Earthquakes, lack of maintenance, plundering, and destroying sections
for building materials all contributed to its current state. They have stabilized the outer walls and are
beginning to restore the stone that still remains. They have also rebuilt a portion of the
'Arenus' to show what it would have looked like.
We had a great time walking
around and learning so much. We left the
Coliseum and headed along our way to other places to visit. On the way we bought some grapes from a fruit
stand. These grapes was gigantic, each
the size of a . . . walNUT! In the
extremely hot and windless weather we enjoyed all the moisture and refreshment
we could get.
We passed by one of the
buildings that most impressed me on my last trip. It’s called the Monument of Victor Emmanuel. It’s being used as a museum, and it is
ginormous. It’s one of the biggest buildings
in Rome and is only a few centimeters lower that St. Peter's Cathedral (which
is the highest building in Rome by law).
It faces the older part of modern Rome where the high-end shops line
both sides of the street. No matter what
city we end up in, we always manage to find ourselves in the ritzee
quarters. A few more blocks and we
turned towards our next point of interest, the Trevi Fountain.
When we arrived, we turned
the corner and my first thought was a rock concert was playing at the
fountain. The number of people packed
into the small steps around the fountain and the noise from loud foreign
tourists and the water was overwhelming.
I actually lost Heather for a good long minute as she scouted out a
place to sit and admire the fountain. Designed
by Nicholas Salvi, it was a beautiful display of travertine sculpture. We enjoyed some time there, threw coins over
our shoulder as everyone seemed to do.
We then read in our map that if you threw a coin in and drank the water
it would ensure your return to Rome. In
hindsight, I'm glad we didn't drink the water!
Moving on we came next to
the Spanish Steps. When I was here last
time at night, there were actual Spanish boys serenading the girls with their
guitars and hockers trying to sell roses to every couple in sight. Just so no one thinks I’m a jerk because I
didn't buy Heather flowers, we both agreed that having a flower thrust into
your face is all the excuse you need to say no.
We found some shade by the central fountain and just sat there for some
time, enjoying our time people watching.
Trying to stand up after a
long day walking is not something that should be attempted nearly slippery steps
in confined space. Nevertheless, we
managed to not fall into the water and only receive mild looks of laughter from
onlookers. From there we went for supper
at the nearby restaurants that line the alleyways. The place we finally decided on looked kind
of sketchy (not sure why we chose it then), but it some of the best pasta we
have had so far. Heather had local pasta
with a broccoli sauce that she loved. I
had three different types, all were amazing, but the absolute best was
tortellini with Roquefort and truffle cream sauce. Sooooo good!!
You can see a little of the placemat from the picture, it was indeed a
battleship placemat. We were going to
take them home with us, where we had a pen, but we forgot in the end.
After supper we walked a bit
more, getting some ice cream and a nutella crepe for dessert, and eventually (that’s
a very long eventually) the bus arrived to bring us home.
Day two in Rome... The city of eternal heat. Seriously Rome is an infernal pit of heat, even today when it was 39 here in Hersonissos it's better than when we were in Rome. So day two we headed to the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill since our combo passes from the Colosseum had to be used within 24 hours. There was a line up for the audio guides but it wasn't too long. We decided to save money we would share an audio guide... In hindsight it is worth the money to have your own, just in case you were wondering.The entrance brings you in between the two areas and number one on the audio guide is at the far north west corner so we hiked in that direction to begin our tour. This area of the old city is very cool and interesting though I recommend that you that you choose a cooler month to explore since it really is a good half to full day experience and there wasn't much in the way of shade.
There was a lot to see in this area and even though our tour of Palatine hill was condensed because we were hot and tired we were still there for hours. Now I am not the history buff if you want a full history lesson you would be better of seeing my friend Brett, but I can tell you very basics of what we saw. Now for clarification there is a lot of archeological and restoration work going on still so some of what we were supposed to see was really difficult to catch.
What I believe was the senate house had a number of cool artifacts from the era of the forum and there was much to be learned about how society functioned at that time. We saw the arches of Septimus Severus and for Hadrian. We saw the temples of Saturn and Vesta as well as the house of the Vestal Virgins. For me the highlight of the roman forum (other than getting an idea of what the ancient city looked like) was the final resting place of Julius Cesar, for some reason this struck me as really fascinating.
So we spent the afternoon wandering in the heat, trying to find shady spots where we could huddle together to hear the audio guide information. By the time we reached Palatine hill we were losing interest but we saw a really cool pool/fountain and some old aviaries. We got a bit lost and I had trouble following where we were. We saw the area of old residences and the area where Augustus Cesar had lived, plus the side of the hill that contained the cave where apparently Romulus and Remus had been raised by the she wolf.
We tried to check out the onsite museum but didn't have the attention spans so after checking out a cool garden we headed out of the historic site. Realizing how hot and tired we had become...not to mention hungry, we headed back towards the metro to begin what would be a long journey home. It didn't seem to matter when we caught the metro we would always have a 20+ minute wait for the bus back to the campground.
When we got back we headed to the restaurant for dinner and thanks to iTunes movie rentals we have spent many a nights watching movies in tents and our other various accommodations since Netflix hasn't worked since we were in the UK.